The Met Gala is taking a different approach to fashion in 2027, replacing a planned John Galliano retrospective with an exhibition exploring the creative possibilities of everyday clothing.

Announced on November 5, extraORDINARY: Fashion and the Poetics of the Everyday will examine how designers transform familiar wardrobe staples and commonplace materials into extraordinary creations. From jeans and T-shirts to paper, plastic and aluminium, the exhibition will consider how seemingly ordinary objects can become expressions of creativity and craftsmanship.

Photo: Getty Images

Curated by Andrew Bolton, head of the Costume Institute, alongside Stephanie Kramer and Emily Mushaben, the exhibition will bring together more than 200 objects. Its central idea is to encourage visitors to reconsider their relationship with clothing and how personal experiences, habits and memories influence the way they dress.

The exhibition will be organised into two sections: Familiar Forms and Common Matter. The first will explore designers’ interpretations of wardrobe essentials, including T-shirts, white shirts, jeans, trench coats, biker jackets and puffer coats. The second will examine how unconventional and discarded materials, including paper, plastic and aluminium, can be transformed into wearable designs.

Photo: Getty Images

Among the featured pieces are Matthieu Blazy’s trompe l’oeil leather jeans, Marc Jacobs’s 1990s Perry Ellis grunge designs and the Calvin Klein jeans famously worn by Brooke Shields. Creations by designers including Junya Watanabe and Charles James will also feature.

The presentation will open with Jun Takahashi’s Undercover Fall 2024 collection, while designs by Anrealage founder Kunihiko Morinaga will bring the exhibition to a close.

The new direction follows the cancellation of John Galliano: Horizons, a retrospective originally planned to celebrate the British designer’s four-decade career. Announced in July 2026, the exhibition was expected to showcase his work across his namesake label, Givenchy, Christian Dior and Maison Margiela.

Photo: Getty Images

However, the plans attracted criticism because of Galliano’s history of antisemitic and racist remarks. In 2011, he was dismissed from his position as creative director of Christian Dior after videos emerged of him making antisemitic comments in a Paris bar. He was subsequently convicted by a French court.

On August 31, Galliano and the Metropolitan Museum of Art jointly announced that the retrospective would not proceed. In his statement, the designer acknowledged the pain caused by his past remarks, particularly to Jewish and Asian communities, and recognised the importance of personal accountability.

The 2027 Met Gala will take place on May 3, with the exhibition opening to the public on May 9 at The Met Fifth Avenue in New York. It will remain on view until January 9, 2028.

With extraORDINARY, the Costume Institute is shifting attention towards the relationship between fashion and everyday life, exploring how designers find inspiration in the familiar and give it a new identity.

Pierpaolo Piccioli has left Balenciaga after 16 months as creative director, bringing his tenure at the French fashion house to an end. Kering, the brand’s parent company, confirmed his departure on Thursday, November 5.

In a statement, Balenciaga’s president and CEO, Gianfranco Gianangeli, thanked Piccioli for his contribution, highlighting his efforts to reconnect the house with its couture heritage through craftsmanship, construction and creativity.

Kering CEO Luca de Meo also praised the Italian designer, describing him as an exceptional couturier and creative talent. He reaffirmed the group’s ambition to preserve Balenciaga’s avant-garde identity while respecting its heritage. The company added that the house’s next creative direction would be announced shortly.

Photo: Umberto Fratini/ Gorunway.com

Piccioli joined Balenciaga after spending 25 years at Valentino, where he became recognised for his romantic designs, expressive use of colour and expertise in haute couture. He joined the Italian fashion house in 1999, initially working in accessories before becoming co-creative director alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2008. He took sole charge in 2016.

His appointment at Balenciaga was announced in May 2025 and became effective on July 10, following Demna’s departure for Gucci. The change marked a new direction for the Parisian house after a decade under Demna, whose tenure was defined by oversized silhouettes, streetwear influences and unconventional runway presentations.

Piccioli’s first collection for Balenciaga was presented in October 2025. Drawing inspiration from the archives of founder Cristóbal Balenciaga, it introduced his approach to the house through fluid silhouettes, considered tailoring and traditional couture techniques.

In July 2026, he presented his first haute couture collection for the brand. The collection featured sculptural gowns, intricate embellishments and vivid colours, with references to the founder’s work, including the iconic Chou cape. Model Gigi Hadid also made a runway appearance.

His final ready-to-wear collection, Spring/Summer 2027, was presented during Paris Fashion Week on October 1. It featured colourful tailoring, flowing dresses, distressed denim, minimalist footwear and oversized handbags, offering a more relaxed interpretation of the house’s wardrobe.

Photo: Umberto Fratini/ Gorunway.com

His departure comes amid a challenging period for Balenciaga. Morgan Stanley estimates cited by Vogue put the brand’s 2025 sales at €1.47 billion, down from €1.65 billion in 2024. Kering has also identified ready-to-wear and footwear as areas requiring renewed attention.

Reports of Piccioli’s impending exit had circulated before the official announcement. In October, Puck reported that Balenciaga employees had been informed of his departure, citing concerns about the brand’s creative and commercial direction, particularly its menswear business. The publication also linked British designer Martine Rose to the creative director position, although Kering has not confirmed her appointment.

With Piccioli’s departure now confirmed and his successor yet to be announced, Balenciaga faces another change in creative leadership. The house is expected to reveal its next creative direction .

French fashion label Coperni has ceased operations following months of unresolved disagreements with its distributor and majority shareholder, Tomorrow. The announcement marks a difficult turn for the brand, founded by Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer, after eight years in operation since its 2018 relaunch, having first been founded in 2013.

Photo: Coperni

In a statement released on November 4, the co-founders confirmed that efforts to resolve the dispute had been unsuccessful, citing outstanding payments owed to the company. Reflecting on their time at the label, they described the experience as extraordinary and expressed gratitude to the industry figures, retailers, buyers, press and collaborators who had supported its development.

Photo: Coperni

Despite the closure, Vaillant and Meyer indicated that they intend to remain active in fashion. They spoke of their continued interest in innovation and expressed optimism about pursuing new creative projects.

The dispute had been developing for several months. In June, a Paris court granted Coperni protection, allowing the brand to enter judicial reorganisation proceedings as it sought to address its financial difficulties.

Photo: Coperni

At the time, Vaillant explained that the company had been awaiting payments from Tomorrow, which handled its distribution and held a majority stake in the business. Coperni also confirmed that Tomorrow had terminated its licensing agreement with the label.

Photo: Coperni

The situation became more complicated after Tomorrow was acquired by Progetto 11 in March. The Italian holding company, which also owns e-commerce platform The Level Group, took over the business as questions surrounding Coperni’s ownership and financial position remained unresolved. Following the acquisition, Vaillant and Meyer sought to regain control of their label.

Photo: Coperni

Progetto 11 subsequently described the business as already facing disagreements over ownership and governance when it took over. It also pointed to funding difficulties and the cancellation of Coperni’s planned fashion show as part of the challenges it inherited.

The financial arrangement between Coperni and Tomorrow had also become a source of tension. Tomorrow collected revenue from wholesale sales across its portfolio and paid royalties to the brands it represented. It was also responsible for reimbursing certain operational expenses, including fashion shows and campaigns. However, Coperni alleged that these payments and reimbursements had stopped as Tomorrow’s wholesale business encountered difficulties.

Photo: Coperni

Those challenges were reflected in Tomorrow’s financial results for 2024. Its turnover fell by 34 per cent to £8.4 million, while gross profit margin dropped from 76 per cent to 41 per cent. Operating losses also increased by 28 per cent to £7.5 million.

Signs of the wider financial strain had emerged earlier in the year when Coperni cancelled its Autumn/Winter 2026 show at Paris Fashion Week. Another Tomorrow-backed label, Martine Rose, also faced production difficulties in March, announcing that it could not produce its forthcoming collection due to circumstances beyond its control. However, Tomorrow later clarified that the brand’s Fall 2026 collection would go ahead.

Photo: Coperni

The announcement confirms that Coperni SAS, the brand’s main French operating company, has ceased operations. However, it does not establish the long-term future of Coperni itself. Vaillant and Meyer have expressed interest in pursuing new creative projects, leaving open the possibility of further developments for the label.

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