Kering has officially appointed British-Jamaican fashion designer Martine Rose as the new creative director of Balenciaga, succeeding Pierpaolo Piccioli, who recently departed from the fashion house. Her appointment will take effect on November 16, 2026, and she will be based in Paris. Rose will also become the first woman to lead the creative direction of the 109-year-old fashion house.

Commenting on the appointment, Kering CEO Luca de Meo praised the designer’s creative vision and understanding of fashion and culture. “Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion. Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision.” Adding that “her connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the house. Her appointment reflects our ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity and culture.”

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Although this is her first time leading a major European fashion house, it is not her first time working with Balenciaga. In 2015, former creative director Demna appointed Rose as a consultant for the brand’s menswear line, a position she held until 2018 while continuing to develop her own label.

Rose founded her namesake brand in London in 2007, initially focusing on menswear. Her designs include pieces associated with British subcultures, including football, rave and reggae, with collections that combine sportswear, streetwear and tailoring. In 2022, she described her view of fashion, saying, “Fashion is fun. You should always continue to push the envelope.”

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Her designs have also led to collaborations with brands such as Nike, Supreme and Tommy Hilfiger. Several celebrities, including Kendrick Lamar, Rihanna, Timothée Chalamet and A$AP Rocky, have also worn her designs. In 2022, Kendrick Lamar shared his excitement about working with the designer after she created looks for his Big Steppers Tour, writing, “Bucket list to work with Martine Rose.”

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Speaking about her new position, Rose described it as “a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit. Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honoring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.” Under her creative direction, she will oversee the house’s womenswear, menswear and accessories collections.

The Met Gala is taking a different approach to fashion in 2027, replacing a planned John Galliano retrospective with an exhibition exploring the creative possibilities of everyday clothing.

Announced on November 5, extraORDINARY: Fashion and the Poetics of the Everyday will examine how designers transform familiar wardrobe staples and commonplace materials into extraordinary creations. From jeans and T-shirts to paper, plastic and aluminium, the exhibition will consider how seemingly ordinary objects can become expressions of creativity and craftsmanship.

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Curated by Andrew Bolton, head of the Costume Institute, alongside Stephanie Kramer and Emily Mushaben, the exhibition will bring together more than 200 objects. Its central idea is to encourage visitors to reconsider their relationship with clothing and how personal experiences, habits and memories influence the way they dress.

The exhibition will be organised into two sections: Familiar Forms and Common Matter. The first will explore designers’ interpretations of wardrobe essentials, including T-shirts, white shirts, jeans, trench coats, biker jackets and puffer coats. The second will examine how unconventional and discarded materials, including paper, plastic and aluminium, can be transformed into wearable designs.

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Among the featured pieces are Matthieu Blazy’s trompe l’oeil leather jeans, Marc Jacobs’s 1990s Perry Ellis grunge designs and the Calvin Klein jeans famously worn by Brooke Shields. Creations by designers including Junya Watanabe and Charles James will also feature.

The presentation will open with Jun Takahashi’s Undercover Fall 2024 collection, while designs by Anrealage founder Kunihiko Morinaga will bring the exhibition to a close.

The new direction follows the cancellation of John Galliano: Horizons, a retrospective originally planned to celebrate the British designer’s four-decade career. Announced in July 2026, the exhibition was expected to showcase his work across his namesake label, Givenchy, Christian Dior and Maison Margiela.

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However, the plans attracted criticism because of Galliano’s history of antisemitic and racist remarks. In 2011, he was dismissed from his position as creative director of Christian Dior after videos emerged of him making antisemitic comments in a Paris bar. He was subsequently convicted by a French court.

On August 31, Galliano and the Metropolitan Museum of Art jointly announced that the retrospective would not proceed. In his statement, the designer acknowledged the pain caused by his past remarks, particularly to Jewish and Asian communities, and recognised the importance of personal accountability.

The 2027 Met Gala will take place on May 3, with the exhibition opening to the public on May 9 at The Met Fifth Avenue in New York. It will remain on view until January 9, 2028.

With extraORDINARY, the Costume Institute is shifting attention towards the relationship between fashion and everyday life, exploring how designers find inspiration in the familiar and give it a new identity.

Pierpaolo Piccioli has left Balenciaga after 16 months as creative director, bringing his tenure at the French fashion house to an end. Kering, the brand’s parent company, confirmed his departure on Thursday, November 5.

In a statement, Balenciaga’s president and CEO, Gianfranco Gianangeli, thanked Piccioli for his contribution, highlighting his efforts to reconnect the house with its couture heritage through craftsmanship, construction and creativity.

Kering CEO Luca de Meo also praised the Italian designer, describing him as an exceptional couturier and creative talent. He reaffirmed the group’s ambition to preserve Balenciaga’s avant-garde identity while respecting its heritage. The company added that the house’s next creative direction would be announced shortly.

Photo: Umberto Fratini/ Gorunway.com

Piccioli joined Balenciaga after spending 25 years at Valentino, where he became recognised for his romantic designs, expressive use of colour and expertise in haute couture. He joined the Italian fashion house in 1999, initially working in accessories before becoming co-creative director alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2008. He took sole charge in 2016.

His appointment at Balenciaga was announced in May 2025 and became effective on July 10, following Demna’s departure for Gucci. The change marked a new direction for the Parisian house after a decade under Demna, whose tenure was defined by oversized silhouettes, streetwear influences and unconventional runway presentations.

Piccioli’s first collection for Balenciaga was presented in October 2025. Drawing inspiration from the archives of founder Cristóbal Balenciaga, it introduced his approach to the house through fluid silhouettes, considered tailoring and traditional couture techniques.

In July 2026, he presented his first haute couture collection for the brand. The collection featured sculptural gowns, intricate embellishments and vivid colours, with references to the founder’s work, including the iconic Chou cape. Model Gigi Hadid also made a runway appearance.

His final ready-to-wear collection, Spring/Summer 2027, was presented during Paris Fashion Week on October 1. It featured colourful tailoring, flowing dresses, distressed denim, minimalist footwear and oversized handbags, offering a more relaxed interpretation of the house’s wardrobe.

Photo: Umberto Fratini/ Gorunway.com

His departure comes amid a challenging period for Balenciaga. Morgan Stanley estimates cited by Vogue put the brand’s 2025 sales at €1.47 billion, down from €1.65 billion in 2024. Kering has also identified ready-to-wear and footwear as areas requiring renewed attention.

Reports of Piccioli’s impending exit had circulated before the official announcement. In October, Puck reported that Balenciaga employees had been informed of his departure, citing concerns about the brand’s creative and commercial direction, particularly its menswear business. The publication also linked British designer Martine Rose to the creative director position, although Kering has not confirmed her appointment.

With Piccioli’s departure now confirmed and his successor yet to be announced, Balenciaga faces another change in creative leadership. The house is expected to reveal its next creative direction .